Traunstein, Bayern (Bavaria):
Tuesday 14th August 2012
In keeping with the other breweries in Traunstein, Schnitzlbaumer is really old. In fact it is the oldest, being founded in 1575. Back then it was in the Stadtplatz when the first owner Peter Bacher Schlipf bought the property from Georg Kirchmaier and established it as a brewery. It was known as the Obere Bräu. This was to distinguish it from the Untere Brauerei in the town below the Stadtplatz.
Brewing continued in both until relatively recently. The upper brewery soon came to be known as Stanglbräu, a name it was to keep for many years, when it was sold to Christoph Jähner, the Mayor. He died in 1642 but it stayed in the family.
The brewery was destroyed in the town fire of 23rd April 1704 and Johan Jähner rebuilt it quickly. It then left the ownership of that family and passed through several owners who all retained the Stanglbräu name.
Eventually in 1889 it was sold by Heinrich Nassl to Anna and Bernhard Schnitzlbaumer who were brewers from Jettenbach an der Inn.
However they got into financial difficulties and the upper brewery was sold. Things soon looked up when their son took over in 1913.
Production ceased during the Great War and didn't resume until 1926. The beers were brewed during this interim period by the Höllbrauerei, which was connected by family ties. In 1994 the upper brewery was bought back and now is the brewery tap.
The Brauerei Ausshank Schitzlbaumer, to give it its correct title, is just 50 metres from the Stadtplatz up a narrow road called Taubenmarkt. It is like an Italianate building from the outside.
Once inside it proved to be a revelation. There is a very comfortable front bar with all kinds of seating including sofas.
From here you walk through to what was the brewing hall. In fact there are two brewing coppers along one side but these are no longer in use.
There is a balcony and the room gives an impression of a very large space, which it is. This room leads to a terrace high above the river and the lower town including the brewery. The walls are decorated with old pictures, and ancient brewery tools and implements.
There is a machine that I think was steam driven and supplied the power for cooling beer rapidly. It has been named Carl.
The brewery produces four regular year-round draught beers and all are on offer in the pub. These are: Export-Hell (5.2%) (filtered Bavarian-style light beer), Dunkles-Export (5.2%) (typical dark beer), Edel-Pils (4.9%) (good example of German-style Pils) and Schnitzei-Weisse (5.2%) (wheat). I can't vouch for all of them but what I had I liked.
This is an unusual pub, more like a museum in many ways. Not to be missed if you are in the area.
Brauerei Ausschank Schnitzlbaumer, Taubermarkt 11a-13, Traunstein 83278
Open: Daily 09.00-01.00
The brewery is about 15 minutes walk from Traunstein station which is served by RB (regional trains), RE (Regional Express) and EC (Euro-City international trains).