Neumarkt (Oberpfalz), Bayern (Bavaria):
Oberer Ganskeller (Gansbräu)
Tuesday 25th May 2010
Neumarkt is a very common name in Germany. Obviously it means New Market, yet inevitably the towns are very old. As the title at the top of the page indicates, this one is in the Oberpfalz area of Southern Germany, which is part of the province of Bavaria (Bayern). It's about twenty miles south east of the ancient city of Nürnberg and can be easily reached by Regional Express train from there. This part of Germany is awash with beer and small historic breweries and the reason for going to Neumarkt was because this old market town has three.
I walked down Bahnhofstrasse from the station and in less than ten minutes I was standing opposite my first watering hole. The tap of the Goose Brewery is attached to the brewery itself. The beginnings of brewery are recorded in 1580 when an inn with the name "Goldener Gans" was first recorded. It had its own brewery yet in 1842 there was pressure on it to take beer from the Kommunbrauerei (owned by the town) so the first brewery was founded as a limited company.
In 1866 it was purchased by Leonhard Ehrnsperger and his descendents run it today. The brewery and its pubs were destroyed in World War 2 and they were rebuilt. It was located at Ringstrasse 4, adjoining the Oberegans pub.
It is reached through an entrance which passes under the administration offices. It is just wide and high enough for the drays to pass though.
Next door, the tap is a handsome building with a partially walled terrace adjoining the street for al fresco dining and drinking.
It was coming into its own during May when I visited. I entered the building and went to the main room, which was very traditional; as was the menu.
It was lunchtime and I had a Bavarian liver dumpling soup (Bayerischer Leberknödelsuppe) which is a favourite of mine, a dumpling made with liver in a sea of beef bouillon. Next was a Schnitzel made with pork. I don't normally remember the meals I have had, but this stood out as being particularly good.
What about the beer? Well that was very good. On offer were Hell (4.9%), Dunkel (5.0%), Pils (5.0%), and Kellerpils (5.0%). I had a small Dunkel, a bit too malty for my taste; a small Pils, good, a fine example. Finally I had a large Kellerpils, served in a stone krug because it is cloudy. Absolutely wonderful! This is a great pub and comes completely recommended.
Oberer Ganskeller, Ringstrasse 2, Neumarkt 92318. Tel: 09181 512035
Open: Monday to Friday 08.30-24.00; Saturday and Sunday 09.30-24.00
Food is served 11.30-14.00, 17.00-21.30
From the railway station walk down Bahnhofstrasse which is a straight road. When you arrive at the end the pub and brewery are in sight. The station is served by S-Bahn local trains from Nürnberg and Regional Express trains running between Nürnberg and Regensburg.
Please note that there is another pub owned by the brewery, the Mittlere Ganshaus,
to be found in Obere Marktstrasse in the pedestrian-only centre of the town.
Update January 2020. Hours are now: Monday-Saturday: 09.30-24.00; Sunday 09.30-22.00.